A delicious lunch in the bush…

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Organic slow food is at it’s best in the Chilo Gorge bush camp, Gonarezhou National Park.

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Lemon sunrise, a bush walk, crocodiles and spinetails at Chilo Gorge Camp:  14 th of April

After a peaceful night, listening to the sonorous  hummimg of a giant eagle owl in the riverine trees downstream from our tents, and staring happily at the myriad stars through the high mesh windows of my tent, I sit writing my notes by the warmth of a campfire. Peter and Victor are already busy, the milk churn is warming bath water and a pot of coffee is brewing as the  wintery lemon sunrises behind the ramparts of the Cliffs.

Thomas  has heard lion and hyena calling distantly this last night.
The guests seem to be quite relieved not to have heard same!

Clive and Thomas gather  the  guests,  and we proceed downstream on a walk, Thomas in the lead and sharing his gentle but extensive wisdom with our engrossed guests, David, his wife Raviro, son Solomon and daughter Ruvarashe.

a satisfying morning

All is of interest to Thomas, from the mud caked on a tree metres high, (an elephant rubbing post) to the old buffalo skull and jawbone that we find lying on the red earth (telling the months old story of a lion kill). He transmits his enthusiasm to all who listen…

Thomas and guests on a walk
We spend a fascinating morning, inspecting various animal scats, tracks and the stories therein, and seeing special birds such as  the Bohm’ s spinetails, flying above us in tandem with Mosque swallows. We then observe a reptilian monster- a fifteen foot crocodile cruising just meters below us in the clear Runde river, as we hang, mouths agape, over him on the high bank.

Thomas and guests admire a crocodile in the Runde river

the crocodile

Below him (or her?! ), the perfect circles of Tilapia nests, each guarded by large female fish, form abstract delights in the sand. Fish are everywhere, gentle spawning Tilapia and those fierce hunters, the Tiger fish. None seem too concerned by the leviathan hovering above them- do they know they are too nimble for serious pursuit?

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A Gentle Giant: 15th of April at Chilo Gorge Bush Camp

Yesterday, our Australian guests headed through the park back to Chilo Gorge Lodge with Thomas Mutombeni to round off their Zimbabwean safari with a little more luxury at the home base of Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge. We were sad to see them go.

We packed up camp with the able help of staff members Lionel, Peter, Batsi, Victor and Lymon who created a compact load on the trailer…what a team!

Packing up the Chilo Gorge Bush Camp Kit

Lionel, Peter,Batsi, Victor and Lymon lo res

We then had the fun of sharing a close sight of an immense elephant bull wallowing in the thick mud of a small pan behind out camp- and shared that experience with John Laing and his group of South African birders who had arrived, having driven in on their way to view the cliffs and do a round trip to the pans .

John Laing and Chilo Gorge guests enjot an elephant

Driving out of the Gonarezhou National Park after bidding sad farewell to the gorgeous scenery at Chilo Gorge tented camp, we were graced with the huge presence of a spectacular bull elephant, a gentle giant who allowed us to invade his space and admire him against the backdrop of the magnificent Chilojo Cliffs.

Gentle giant and cliffs
Clive and I spent  a night at Chipinda Pools headquarters with friends Hugo van der Westhuizen of Frankfurt Zoological Society and Ant Kaschula of Gonarezhou Bush camps, and after a braai ( barbeque) and a few drams of good whisky, we retired. But not to sleep! Fruit bats whirred their wings above the tent, and their range of twangs and squeaks,  melodious and raucous by turns, interspersed with the calls of the Barred owls, Giant Eagle owls and intriguing heavy splashes in the river below the tent! About 3 am I was jolted from fitful sleep by the sudden single bark of a baboon, loud and urgent in the tree above our tent where his troop was resting…my first thought was  – leopard! And sure enough as I lay there, came the rasping saw of a close cat – very close….so that I watched for long minutes through the gauze window beside my mattress, expecting to see the slinky shape materialize out of the tree shadows any moment…
The rest of the big males in the aerial baboon troop took up the alarm and punctuated our early hours with yells of anger as the cat moved about, invisible but so real….
Before dawn broke, Woodland kingfishers took up a duet and Ground hornbills began booming from the gigantic dead tree nearby where their family had spent the night. Within ten minutes of first light, sound rang from every tree canopy as woodpeckers, barbets, doves and scrub robins all vied with each other to greet the new day. Joyous sound and such a delight to lie abed with a soft pillow, sleepless but happy in the immersion of senses in this surrounding wilderness. I was not complaining!

Posted in birds, bush camps, Chilo Gorge, chilojo cliffs, conservation, eco-tourism, elephants, gonarezhou national park, great limpopo transfrontier conservation Area, safari, zimbabwe | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Peri-peri chicken in Mutare, Chilo Gorge Lodge camp on the Runde River: 9th of April

After a visit to Mutare to spend time with my dearest friend Bronwen, much peri peri chicken and wine at the Portuguese club, and much talk of art, and life….I returned home to Senuko for a few days, caught up with Jade and Rayne, darling girls, and then bounced back to Harare, for Clive to attend rhino security meetings on behalf of the Save Valley Conservancy. in Harare I finalised the layout of posters for Taste of Africa- our fundraising event for African wild dogs in conjunction with Painted Wolf Wines – due to happen at the Mukuvisi Woodlands 29th June- could be a difficult date since Zimbabwe’s harmonised elections are said to happening then……but I have a feeling that elections will happen at a later date.

Below is the gorgeous poster which Printworks will kindly print to advertise the event……..

Taste poster X-lo res
Exciting news…On 11th April, Clive and I arrived in Gonarezhou National Park to help John Laing and the crew from Chilo Gorge Lodge to set up a bush camp at Chilojo Cliffs for some Australian/Zimbabwean guests. A stunning site, tents nestled unobtrusively on the edge of the Runde River, with views of the magnificent Chilojo Cliffs…

IMG_3588-chilo bush camp-cropped and lo res
Yesterday all was looking welcoming, tents made up, pillows plump on the thick mattressed beds, showers erected, kitchen set up with Chef Peter heating chicken pieces and pastries for lunch over the glowing fire, on the side of which stood a huge milk churn, put to good use as a boiler for heating water to fill the hanging bucket showers for the guests…

Astonished delight was painted on the faces of the guests when they arrived with professional guide Thomas Mutombeni – a much more luxurious and scenic camp than they had expected….with hippo tracks leading to spectacular views of the cliffs

hippo tracks- lo res

The game drive we did yesterday afternoon through the Runde River valley, was incredibly productive-

Thomas Mutombeni and Cliffs
our sightings included numerous gentle young bull elephants, one munching on the leaves of a Lonchcarpus tree .who became the subject of intense photography sessions…

Chilo Gorge safari vehicle in front of cliffs
We were delighted to observe so much more during that afternoon:

Lone wildebeeste bulls scattered at discreet intervals throughout the valley…..
Impala rams, entering into their season of rut, snorting and tossing their elegant heads, clashing horns against each other serious intent to do damage to their rivals in love, while the vast herds of females stood demurely aside to observe the tussles….
Dark chocolate Nyala bulls, fringed legs and kingly bearing, and the treat of seeing the usually shy females, their red flanks lushly dripped with white stripes, accompanied by a tiny fawn.
Waterbuck ladies with their young, looking like fuzzy teddy bears, and a full-horned waterbuck bull anxiously watching over them…..
A diminutive russet Sharpe’s grysbok, all of one foot tall, bounding through the yellow grass. The delightful name Changana name is Xpwitsipwitsi !….
A river of impala does streaming and leaping across the road in front of us, exquisite in the golden afternoon light….
Warthog mum and babies….
A perfect lion paw print in hard mud……
Many many kudu cows, accompanied by spiral- horned bulls all walking stiffly and posturing to rival bulls with thick necks and attitude- all in the name of love…..
A water-splattered bull elephant who loomed hugely over our vehicle as we passed through a gully before him, shaking his giant ears at us and telling us to move out of his way. ( We obeyed….! )

Dinner under the stars was chunky mushroom soup followed by beef curry, with the Chilojo Cliffs as a perfect stage-set backdrop, and Painted Wolf Shiraz glowing ruby-red in our glasses, to round off a satisfying day. David, an Australian from Melbourne who favours Shiraz wines, accompanied in the photo by his step daughter Ruvarashe, was extremely impressed with this Painted Wolf nectar!

Dinner Table

Today, 12th April, is a crisp morning after a windy night- the dome tents have squatted happily in the gusts which roared through our camp, while we lay tucked securely inside. A safe, warm cocooned feeling!

Guest Tent

An early breakfast of sausage and egg, accompanied by mugs of fresh-brewed La Lucie coffee, and the game drive is off on another adventure, to the top of the Chilojo Cliffs.

I stay in camp, lying on my bed with a view of the cliffs through the gauze door,to catch up on diarising and planning to start a painting of the cliffs -I can not resist trying to capture the glow of those soft bands of pink and yellow sandstone ….

Wow! A huge baboon has just galloped past my tent as I write, clutching a piece of our breakfast toast and hotly pursued by Victor….maitre ‘d of camp and brave baboon-chaser! The baboons, endlessly entertaining as they are to watch in the wild, are nevertheless great opportunists and thieves when it comes to unguarded food. They are not welcome around camp !

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Posted in Africa, african wildlife, art, bicycle rides, bush camps, Chilo Gorge, cooking, eco-tourism, gonarezhou national park, Painted Wolf Wines, Rivers, safari, Uncategorized, wine, zimbabwe | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Family ties, photoshoots and Easter renewals: 1st of April

 

Easter  weekend has been a joyful reunion with Bianca, Lorraine’s daughter, and her husband Ben, who have brought baby Ethan to Africa from Australia. First great grandchild for Dad. Great gramps has been so pleased, bonding with Ethan immediately and Ethan has been the most relaxed, smiling baby I’ve ever seen who has just travelled thousands of miles in a plane. After being used to holding the delicate little girls in our family, cuddling this solid little mass of wriggle-power feels like controlling a rugby ball!
Lorraine and Wayne, proud new grandparents, travelled from Binga.
Bolliti Misto was on the menu for a celebratory dinner Friday night. I simmered ox tongue, silverside and a whole fat chicken in stock with a clove-studded onion and celery, and served it with roasted cherry tomatoes from Steve and Clare’s garden and butternut risotto.
Kelli’s wonderful Christmas present to the whole family was a voucher for us to have a family photo shoot with a professional photographer friend of hers. Michelle hauled her cameras (and ladder for fun shots!) today, and we gathered in the Borrowdale garden , all dressed in white shirts, for our photographic debut with Ethan……..
Can not wait to see the photos, although sadly Clive could not be here due to work pressures. Glenn and family have been tied to Senuko, so their presence was also lacking.
Tonight Kelli and Michele have accompanied Bianca, Ben, baby Ethan and Bianca’s dearest friend Robyn, to Coimbra for peri peri chicken. I have made a chicken omelette for Dad and we have retired early,  happy with the lovely day we have just had.

 

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At last the fledglings have flown the coop, I make Cajun-spiced stuffed Eggs to celebrate: 16 th of March

This morning the three baby starlings flapped and pooped with increased enthusiasm,  until one took the plunge and dived for the opening of the roof where the parents have been vociferously encouraging them from. Success as out he flew into the bright light of day. One of the others not so lucky, he misjudged and fell to the floor of our bedroom, where I  later found Dzidzi , our jack russel terrier,  mouthing him. He was dead to the world. Sad that all that effort on the part of his parents came to nought. The other flew I know not when, but I have since seen the two surviving chicks happily fluffed on a branch outside the room, being fed red fruits from a vine that grows nearby and generally being fussed over by the parents.

Jade and Rayne are coming to visit this evening after a week of school. I have started a dress- up box for them. Have heaped old scarves, belts and shiny stuff for capes into my grandfathers’ old box trunk which stands in our lounge. Added a miniature wedding dress which Bianca then Kelli used to dress up, which I have kept in the attic until today. My mum made for it me to play in when I was 6. I know they will be so excited, and they will probably play the drums excellently in our lounge as part of the dance show they will immediately devise in their new regalia.
I shall boil eggs and stuff them for the little girls, for an early theatre supper …yummy !

Cajun-spiced Stuffed Eggs

Ingredients:

Eggs – 6 hard boiled
Mayonnaise
Cajun spice mix – 1 teaspoon or more if you like it spicier. See recipe below.
Salt

Method:

Hard boil and half the eggs length ways. Scoop out the yolk and mash it with mayonnaise and Cajun spice mix to taste. ( Less cajun spice in the eggs the little ones will get!) Add salt as necessary. Pile the yolks back into the white shells and serve on a bed of coleslaw .

Coleslaw

Ingredients:
Cabbage – 2 cups finely shredded
Carrot – 1 cup grated
Apple – 1 cup grated (skin and all)
Mayonnaise – 1/2 cup mixed to creamy consistency with milk, and salt and pepper to taste
Trail mix – 1 cup (including delicious nuts,raisins,sunflower and pumpkin seeds)

Method:

Mix cabbage, carrot and apple with mayonnaise. Stir in trail mix.

Cajun spice mix

Ingredients:

Paprika – 1/2 cup
Cayenne pepper – 1 and 1/2 tablespoons
Black pepper – 1/4 cup
Onion powder –  2 tablespoons
Garlic powder – 2 tablespoons

Method:

Combine spices thoroughly, store  in a jar in a cool place.

 

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Starlings and stir fry…….. 14th of March

This morning’s sunrise at Tsavene is a soft glow of clear yellow in a clear sky, a gentle start to the day with freshly ground coffee sitting in bed, after I have let the dogs out of the back door.
Shortly comes the expected rude awakening and an explosion of excited squawks as the female Red winged starling arrives breathlessly over our heads to feed her three hulking babies their breakfast. Nesting above our heads in the wooden beam, these teenagers need to GO. Fly the coop. I have had enough of their prolific poops and cacaphony. Side-stepping the mound of fecal sacs, dismembered Armoured land -crickets and other splurge below their nest, I escape the noisy bedroom and spend the morning sketching a painting-three African wild dogs leaping exuberantly across the large canvas.
Five o’clock wake ups make for long working hours, and by noon I am starving.

Clive and I get busy and create lunch.

Thai Chicken noodle stir fry with coconut, garlic and ginger sauce:

Ingredients:

1 or 2 cups of chicken, shredded off the carcass of a whole bird which has been slow-simmered in water, with onion, garlic and chillies added.
(After simmering a whole chicken in water, together with an onion and a bay leaf, chopped garlic and a couple of bruised whole red chillies, I had jointed and removed the legs and thighs to use in the Chicken Gumbo that I made yesterday.)
Chicken stock – 4 to 6 cups, depending on whether you want more sauce in the end result.
Coconut cream – 1cup
Salt
Pepper
Egg noodles – 4 portions dried noodles
Carrots – 2cut into long thin strips
Onion – 1 cut into half slices
Garlic- 4 cloves, crushed
Ginger- 1 inch piece, grated
Red chillies -2 small  hot ones
Green pepper – 1cut into long thin strips

Method:

Simmer chicken, stock and salt and pepper in a saucepan, together with the egg noodles, until the egg noodles, about 10 minutes, until the noodles are nearly soft enough to eat. Do not let them get too soft and mushy!

Meanwhile heat a tablespoon vegetable oil in a wok and add Carrot, Onion, Garlic, Ginger,Red chillies, Green pepper. Stir until vegetables are softened but not over-cooked.

Add the chicken noodle mixture to the wok, giving it a final stir and checking for seasoning. Heap the aromatic mix into a deep soup plate and enjoy.

(Thai people use forks and spoons for their saucy curries, and you can do the same. Or use chopsticks and Chinese spoons as the mood takes you. You can add a finely crushed stalk of lemon grass to the simmering soup stock for extra authentic Thai flavour.)

 

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A Story of Survival against the odds……………..

Eclipse was a young wild dog within our Mambira Pack on Senuko, whom I got to know personally, naming her so because of a beautiful full-moon, eclipse-shaped mark on her left side…..

Eclipse - right and left side

Eclipse – right and left side

At the beginning of this year, 2013, I despaired of her survival-she was badly snared high on her neck, having run through a snare line set for impala, and she was wary, very difficult to approach…

Poor Eclipse, horribly snared.....December 2012

Poor Eclipse, horribly snared…..December 2012

NOW for the HAPPY ENDING!

Visit the links and read the various stories in this wonderful blog, where Dr. Rosemary Groom shares the day to day events in her continuing conservation and education initiatives.

http://zimbabwewilddogs.wildlifedirect.org/2013/02/14/a-story-of-survival-against-the-odds/

Zimbabwe Wild Dogs.

Dr. Rosemary Groom disinfecting the cleaned wound on Eclipse's neck

Dr. Rosemary Groom disinfecting the cleaned wound on Eclipse’s neck

Eclipse rejoins her pack ........

Eclipse rejoins her pack ……..

As I write this, Rueben, the senior scout with the Lowveld Wild Dog Project, under Dr. Rosemary Groom, has reported sightings of Eclipse, looking fat and healthy again.

As Rosemary says, Eclipse now has the potential to become an Alpha female with pups of her own one day…

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Stripe-bellied Sand Snake makes a meal of an unfortunate Foam Nest Frog

John and Nadine’s little daughter Kiera, who lives with them at Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, is endlessly entranced by all moving creatures, and has a favourite Sand Snake that she sees regularly when she potters around with the Chilo gardeners…….

The Stripe-bellied Sand Snake, also called Sand Racer, Psammophis subtaeniatus has an off-putting scientific name, but is a very beautiful creature, non-venomous and a fast-moving hunter of frogs and small rodents. It’s scales are praline-brown, backed by softest cobalt….
the back of a Stripe-bellied Sand Snake

the back of a Stripe-bellied Sand Snake

Our charming Foam Nest Frog, Chiromantis xerampolina, is a common resident of the rooms at  Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, often surprising guests by chirping sweetly from behind picture frames when rain is coming, or masquerading as a white bar of soap on porcelain basins…….(the frog is photo-chromatic- it changes colour from speckled grey to white in bright sunlight or on a white background!)

Foam Nest Frog-white phase

Foam Nest Frog-white phase

Here are a sequence of photographs that I took at our Tsavene Bush House in the Save Valley Conservancy where we also have an abundance of Foam nest frogs…..and the occasional Sand Snake!

           Life is all about eating, or being eaten.

sand snake and chiromantis 1

sand snake and chiromantis 1

sand snake and chiromantis 2

sand snake and chiromantis 2

sand snake and chiromantis 3

sand snake and chiromantis 3

sand snake and chiromantis 4

sand snake and chiromantis 4

All photographs and text are the copyright of Lin Barrie.

Posted in Africa, african wildlife, Chilo Gorge, conservation, eco-tourism, frogs, gardens and flowers, Save Valley Conservancy, Snakes, Uncategorized, zimbabwe | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Machangana Culture

Visit my page:

Machangana Culture.

what an inspiring community the Machangana, (Shangaan ) people are…..thoroughly embracing modern technology and a competitive world, yet they embrace and respect cultural and family tradition as well…

Machangana lady drummer

Posted in Africa, African flora, african wildlife, art, Chilo Gorge, conservation, cooking, culture, dance, eco-tourism, education, family, fishing, food, gonarezhou national park, great limpopo transfrontier conservation Area, hunting, initiation rites, Machangana culture, Nguni cattle, Rivers, theatre, wine, zimbabwe | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment