Fresh-brewed coffee to start the day at Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge…. 19 th April

I wake to an overcast sky, but a hole in the cloud canopy suddenly brings sunlight to the rock cliffs opposite Room 1, ‘Eagle’, at Chilo Gorge.. ‘Chilo’ in the local language means ‘ baboon roost’ – a very apt name for this glorious place, where high cliffs of tumbled rock and huge riverine trees precariously perched on steep banks over the waters of the Save river form dramatic bedtime havens for the troops of baboons that live here.

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We hear a haunting wail, the ‘man falling down a well’ cry of a baby Pels fishing owl somewhere in the deep green canopy of the trees that overhang the river on the opposite bank. He is hungry, shouting for mum…..
Sharing some quiet time and early morning coffee with Clive is luxury……coffee freshly brewed and accompanied by a crisp biscuit (cookie if you reading this on American soil!). Plus my favorite read at the moment, ‘The Calcutta Cookbook’, full of fascinating traditional Indian recipes.

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Seven fat Green pigeons fly past silently, on their hurried way to some chosen tree, a fruiting fig or a Cordyla with still- green but tasty fruits just forming. Their rose- pink legs are lit by patchy sunlight against the dove-grey clouds.
I savour my surroundings: this room that I sit in is a delight of textures and clever colour.
Ngoni cattle skin rugs sit on sisal carpets woven locally in Zimbabwe. These Ngoni-type cattle derive from ancient Zulu stock and are hardy, beautiful animals, spotted and splashed with black, white and rust. They thrive on the banks of the Save, carefully herded by their proud owners, and I never tire of their glorious colours.

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The local Changana people weave Lala palm fronds and use the strong plait to tie a complex layers of river reeds into durable and beautiful panels. These were traditionally used as doors to their huts and we have used them as decor and panelling in the lodge.

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Chosen and orchestrated by designer Belinda Jones, and ably installed by her brother Anton, the decor here never fails to delight me and complements the structure of the rooms perfectly

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A room to meditate and dream in……

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Chilojo Cliffs and fashion photoshoots……

18th April
Kelli has been working with Priscilla Chigariro of Domino Magazine as beauty editor and make up artist. An inspired thought led her to suggest a photoshoot in front of Chilojo Cliffs for the June ‘conservation month’ issue and Priscilla embraced the idea. Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority agreed and all roads led to Chilojo Cliffs yesterday! A long hard day was had by all with a 3 am wake up on the banks of the Runde river, coffee from the kitchen of the well-appointed Chipinda Pools tented camp and gorgeous model named “T ” made up by Kelli by 4 am. Then into the minibus and our own trusty Toyota truck, both packed to the roofs, (and above!), with multiple bags of clothes, clothes rail, accessories, tent poles borrowed hastily from Hugo van der Westhuizen of Frankfurt Zoological Society, camera tripods, chairs and props, food for the road, and last but not least, the creative crew: director Priscilla, fashion editor Kate, make up artist Kelli, photographer Michelle, model “T”, videographer Tinashe, volunteer male model Isaac, driver Ronnie, guides Clive and myself.

Priscilla in the dawn light

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Kelli makes up model “T”

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Dawn saw us at Chilojo Picnic Site, at the base of the cliffs. The resident bull hippo was annoyed at our tumultuous arrival on ‘his’ stretch of beach and yawned angrily , splashing and tossing his head in the cool water of his river as we toted multiple bags and clothes onto the sand and began to set up the first shoot. Clive stood by with weapon, just in case, and we tried to give the river horse as much space as we could!

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But of course the show had to go on, and luckily the bull calmed down, perhaps even enjoying all the unusual action unfolding on the sand! Cameras clicking, lights flashing, fast changes and touch-ups of lips and hair, video rolling, set-ups of stage props – this was all the intense, hard work that goes into creating a few perfect images for a quality fashion shoot, with the rising sun turning the towering sandstone cliffs every glorious shade of pink and red and highlighting the white scat of a hyena whose tracks led across the sand…

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Knowing the speed with which the gentle sun would become a searing mid-morning blaze, Kelli sheltered beneath a wide-brimmed hat and behind dark glasses.

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A lone wildebeest came to drink way downstream from us and we heard the distant rumble of a lion. White fronted beeeaters wheeled and twittered above us, with occasional fly-pasts of Brown-headed parrots, while “T” was made up in various out-of- Africa looks, using great props such as belts and bags from Johnstones Saddlery and the simple seed-bead necklaces that the ladies make and sell at the Chipinda Pools reception.
The light fast turned bright enough to chase us from the sand, to hide in the shade of the gigantic Cordyla (wild mango) tree at the picnic site and enjoy our lunch. Thomas Mutombeni and Ian Poynton from Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge passed by, enjoying a game drive, and were most surprised to meet this creative crew in the wilderness that is Gonarezhou!

What a magnificent spectacle the Chilojo Cliffs are……

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On our way to the viewpoint at the top of the cliffs we forded the Runde river in our Toyota, forsaking the clumsy minibus for a water-worthy vehicle!
Of course we had to introduce our crew to the delights of wading and bathing in the Runde river and they become so entranced with this ‘cool’ activity that it was unanimously decided to do two shoots in the river! Numerous White- backed vultures bathed further downstream, while we kept to the shallow, hopefully crocodile-free water, and watched from a water- level perspective as the crew created some powerful images of “T” in the river. After videoing the water shoot, Tinashe even managed to sneak up for some reality footage of a flock of wary Egyptian geese .

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Dried off and refreshed , we crossed the deep sand of the river bed and drove through large herds of impala and wildebeeste up to the Chilojo Cliffs viewpoint, Tinashe perched all the while on the roof, his preferred position for a unique video perspective. We passed a herd of cow elephants at some speed, giving him no chance to video them, much to his dismay, since they had young calves at heel and looked cheeky! Discretion was definitely the better part of valour in that situation! No footage, sorry Tinashe.
Predictably, all jaws dropped when we arrived at the top of the cliffs and walked out to the viewpoint, on the edge of the precipice with views forever……
Make- up was redone , sets laid out and model ” T” swung into professional mode, reclining in a sumptuous boudoir while the resident Black eagles (Verraux’s eagles) soared overhead.

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She was then posed on the edge of the precipice in a glorious wedding dress, to take full advantage of the late afternoon glow. The Black eagle who was now perched on the Sentinel pinnacle nearby, watching us, seemingly impressed by this ethereal figure with the long train of her dress flowing out behind her.
As the sun began to desert us, Kate posed “T” in simple linen pants against the panoramic view. Down her naked back hung the exquisite ‘Safari’ necklace which Aude and Sieglinde of Our Crystal Passion have created for the Chilo Gorge shop.

our crystal passion jewellery in the chilo gorge shop

our crystal passion jewellery in the chilo gorge shop

The African dusk fell on us fast, a mantle gently obliterating the view below and giving us instead a growing canopy of a million stars.
Squeezing all bodies inside the overflowing vehicle, we wound a weary but happy way back to camp and bed, our road amazingly lit by the soft rays of a clear half-moon, as we dodged the many nightjars that camouflaged themselves by squatting like rocks on the track, flying up under our wheels at the very last minute as we approached. We were surprised only once by the sudden appearance of three young bull elephants who ran across the road in front of our headlights, and whose squeals of annoyance jolted our sleeping crew wide awake!

I have told you the story behind this fabulous photoshoots, now for the actual spread of images in glorious print, you will need to wait for the June edition of Domino Magazine!

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Gulugi river view from the old tented camp at Chipinda, Gonarezhou

A place of eagle owls, monkeys and leguaans, a tangle of vines and towering riverine trees embracing the opaque water, which in turn hides the fat bream and barbel that the crocodiles cruise for and that the Giant kingfishers, leaping explosively from their hidden perches, lust after.

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Missing the spectacular Runde river scenery already! !

But I have the pleasure of returning to Gonarezhou today to help on a fashion photo shoot in front of the cliffs at which my daughter Kelli Barker is the make up artist and location advisor. Should be fun and a statement for conservation of our beautiful wild ares in conjunction with human beauty

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A delicious lunch in the bush…

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Organic slow food is at it’s best in the Chilo Gorge bush camp, Gonarezhou National Park.

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Lemon sunrise, a bush walk, crocodiles and spinetails at Chilo Gorge Camp:  14 th of April

After a peaceful night, listening to the sonorous  hummimg of a giant eagle owl in the riverine trees downstream from our tents, and staring happily at the myriad stars through the high mesh windows of my tent, I sit writing my notes by the warmth of a campfire. Peter and Victor are already busy, the milk churn is warming bath water and a pot of coffee is brewing as the  wintery lemon sunrises behind the ramparts of the Cliffs.

Thomas  has heard lion and hyena calling distantly this last night.
The guests seem to be quite relieved not to have heard same!

Clive and Thomas gather  the  guests,  and we proceed downstream on a walk, Thomas in the lead and sharing his gentle but extensive wisdom with our engrossed guests, David, his wife Raviro, son Solomon and daughter Ruvarashe.

a satisfying morning

All is of interest to Thomas, from the mud caked on a tree metres high, (an elephant rubbing post) to the old buffalo skull and jawbone that we find lying on the red earth (telling the months old story of a lion kill). He transmits his enthusiasm to all who listen…

Thomas and guests on a walk
We spend a fascinating morning, inspecting various animal scats, tracks and the stories therein, and seeing special birds such as  the Bohm’ s spinetails, flying above us in tandem with Mosque swallows. We then observe a reptilian monster- a fifteen foot crocodile cruising just meters below us in the clear Runde river, as we hang, mouths agape, over him on the high bank.

Thomas and guests admire a crocodile in the Runde river

the crocodile

Below him (or her?! ), the perfect circles of Tilapia nests, each guarded by large female fish, form abstract delights in the sand. Fish are everywhere, gentle spawning Tilapia and those fierce hunters, the Tiger fish. None seem too concerned by the leviathan hovering above them- do they know they are too nimble for serious pursuit?

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A Gentle Giant: 15th of April at Chilo Gorge Bush Camp

Yesterday, our Australian guests headed through the park back to Chilo Gorge Lodge with Thomas Mutombeni to round off their Zimbabwean safari with a little more luxury at the home base of Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge. We were sad to see them go.

We packed up camp with the able help of staff members Lionel, Peter, Batsi, Victor and Lymon who created a compact load on the trailer…what a team!

Packing up the Chilo Gorge Bush Camp Kit

Lionel, Peter,Batsi, Victor and Lymon lo res

We then had the fun of sharing a close sight of an immense elephant bull wallowing in the thick mud of a small pan behind out camp- and shared that experience with John Laing and his group of South African birders who had arrived, having driven in on their way to view the cliffs and do a round trip to the pans .

John Laing and Chilo Gorge guests enjot an elephant

Driving out of the Gonarezhou National Park after bidding sad farewell to the gorgeous scenery at Chilo Gorge tented camp, we were graced with the huge presence of a spectacular bull elephant, a gentle giant who allowed us to invade his space and admire him against the backdrop of the magnificent Chilojo Cliffs.

Gentle giant and cliffs
Clive and I spent  a night at Chipinda Pools headquarters with friends Hugo van der Westhuizen of Frankfurt Zoological Society and Ant Kaschula of Gonarezhou Bush camps, and after a braai ( barbeque) and a few drams of good whisky, we retired. But not to sleep! Fruit bats whirred their wings above the tent, and their range of twangs and squeaks,  melodious and raucous by turns, interspersed with the calls of the Barred owls, Giant Eagle owls and intriguing heavy splashes in the river below the tent! About 3 am I was jolted from fitful sleep by the sudden single bark of a baboon, loud and urgent in the tree above our tent where his troop was resting…my first thought was  – leopard! And sure enough as I lay there, came the rasping saw of a close cat – very close….so that I watched for long minutes through the gauze window beside my mattress, expecting to see the slinky shape materialize out of the tree shadows any moment…
The rest of the big males in the aerial baboon troop took up the alarm and punctuated our early hours with yells of anger as the cat moved about, invisible but so real….
Before dawn broke, Woodland kingfishers took up a duet and Ground hornbills began booming from the gigantic dead tree nearby where their family had spent the night. Within ten minutes of first light, sound rang from every tree canopy as woodpeckers, barbets, doves and scrub robins all vied with each other to greet the new day. Joyous sound and such a delight to lie abed with a soft pillow, sleepless but happy in the immersion of senses in this surrounding wilderness. I was not complaining!

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Peri-peri chicken in Mutare, Chilo Gorge Lodge camp on the Runde River: 9th of April

After a visit to Mutare to spend time with my dearest friend Bronwen, much peri peri chicken and wine at the Portuguese club, and much talk of art, and life….I returned home to Senuko for a few days, caught up with Jade and Rayne, darling girls, and then bounced back to Harare, for Clive to attend rhino security meetings on behalf of the Save Valley Conservancy. in Harare I finalised the layout of posters for Taste of Africa- our fundraising event for African wild dogs in conjunction with Painted Wolf Wines – due to happen at the Mukuvisi Woodlands 29th June- could be a difficult date since Zimbabwe’s harmonised elections are said to happening then……but I have a feeling that elections will happen at a later date.

Below is the gorgeous poster which Printworks will kindly print to advertise the event……..

Taste poster X-lo res
Exciting news…On 11th April, Clive and I arrived in Gonarezhou National Park to help John Laing and the crew from Chilo Gorge Lodge to set up a bush camp at Chilojo Cliffs for some Australian/Zimbabwean guests. A stunning site, tents nestled unobtrusively on the edge of the Runde River, with views of the magnificent Chilojo Cliffs…

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Yesterday all was looking welcoming, tents made up, pillows plump on the thick mattressed beds, showers erected, kitchen set up with Chef Peter heating chicken pieces and pastries for lunch over the glowing fire, on the side of which stood a huge milk churn, put to good use as a boiler for heating water to fill the hanging bucket showers for the guests…

Astonished delight was painted on the faces of the guests when they arrived with professional guide Thomas Mutombeni – a much more luxurious and scenic camp than they had expected….with hippo tracks leading to spectacular views of the cliffs

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The game drive we did yesterday afternoon through the Runde River valley, was incredibly productive-

Thomas Mutombeni and Cliffs
our sightings included numerous gentle young bull elephants, one munching on the leaves of a Lonchcarpus tree .who became the subject of intense photography sessions…

Chilo Gorge safari vehicle in front of cliffs
We were delighted to observe so much more during that afternoon:

Lone wildebeeste bulls scattered at discreet intervals throughout the valley…..
Impala rams, entering into their season of rut, snorting and tossing their elegant heads, clashing horns against each other serious intent to do damage to their rivals in love, while the vast herds of females stood demurely aside to observe the tussles….
Dark chocolate Nyala bulls, fringed legs and kingly bearing, and the treat of seeing the usually shy females, their red flanks lushly dripped with white stripes, accompanied by a tiny fawn.
Waterbuck ladies with their young, looking like fuzzy teddy bears, and a full-horned waterbuck bull anxiously watching over them…..
A diminutive russet Sharpe’s grysbok, all of one foot tall, bounding through the yellow grass. The delightful name Changana name is Xpwitsipwitsi !….
A river of impala does streaming and leaping across the road in front of us, exquisite in the golden afternoon light….
Warthog mum and babies….
A perfect lion paw print in hard mud……
Many many kudu cows, accompanied by spiral- horned bulls all walking stiffly and posturing to rival bulls with thick necks and attitude- all in the name of love…..
A water-splattered bull elephant who loomed hugely over our vehicle as we passed through a gully before him, shaking his giant ears at us and telling us to move out of his way. ( We obeyed….! )

Dinner under the stars was chunky mushroom soup followed by beef curry, with the Chilojo Cliffs as a perfect stage-set backdrop, and Painted Wolf Shiraz glowing ruby-red in our glasses, to round off a satisfying day. David, an Australian from Melbourne who favours Shiraz wines, accompanied in the photo by his step daughter Ruvarashe, was extremely impressed with this Painted Wolf nectar!

Dinner Table

Today, 12th April, is a crisp morning after a windy night- the dome tents have squatted happily in the gusts which roared through our camp, while we lay tucked securely inside. A safe, warm cocooned feeling!

Guest Tent

An early breakfast of sausage and egg, accompanied by mugs of fresh-brewed La Lucie coffee, and the game drive is off on another adventure, to the top of the Chilojo Cliffs.

I stay in camp, lying on my bed with a view of the cliffs through the gauze door,to catch up on diarising and planning to start a painting of the cliffs -I can not resist trying to capture the glow of those soft bands of pink and yellow sandstone ….

Wow! A huge baboon has just galloped past my tent as I write, clutching a piece of our breakfast toast and hotly pursued by Victor….maitre ‘d of camp and brave baboon-chaser! The baboons, endlessly entertaining as they are to watch in the wild, are nevertheless great opportunists and thieves when it comes to unguarded food. They are not welcome around camp !

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Family ties, photoshoots and Easter renewals: 1st of April

 

Easter  weekend has been a joyful reunion with Bianca, Lorraine’s daughter, and her husband Ben, who have brought baby Ethan to Africa from Australia. First great grandchild for Dad. Great gramps has been so pleased, bonding with Ethan immediately and Ethan has been the most relaxed, smiling baby I’ve ever seen who has just travelled thousands of miles in a plane. After being used to holding the delicate little girls in our family, cuddling this solid little mass of wriggle-power feels like controlling a rugby ball!
Lorraine and Wayne, proud new grandparents, travelled from Binga.
Bolliti Misto was on the menu for a celebratory dinner Friday night. I simmered ox tongue, silverside and a whole fat chicken in stock with a clove-studded onion and celery, and served it with roasted cherry tomatoes from Steve and Clare’s garden and butternut risotto.
Kelli’s wonderful Christmas present to the whole family was a voucher for us to have a family photo shoot with a professional photographer friend of hers. Michelle hauled her cameras (and ladder for fun shots!) today, and we gathered in the Borrowdale garden , all dressed in white shirts, for our photographic debut with Ethan……..
Can not wait to see the photos, although sadly Clive could not be here due to work pressures. Glenn and family have been tied to Senuko, so their presence was also lacking.
Tonight Kelli and Michele have accompanied Bianca, Ben, baby Ethan and Bianca’s dearest friend Robyn, to Coimbra for peri peri chicken. I have made a chicken omelette for Dad and we have retired early,  happy with the lovely day we have just had.

 

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At last the fledglings have flown the coop, I make Cajun-spiced stuffed Eggs to celebrate: 16 th of March

This morning the three baby starlings flapped and pooped with increased enthusiasm,  until one took the plunge and dived for the opening of the roof where the parents have been vociferously encouraging them from. Success as out he flew into the bright light of day. One of the others not so lucky, he misjudged and fell to the floor of our bedroom, where I  later found Dzidzi , our jack russel terrier,  mouthing him. He was dead to the world. Sad that all that effort on the part of his parents came to nought. The other flew I know not when, but I have since seen the two surviving chicks happily fluffed on a branch outside the room, being fed red fruits from a vine that grows nearby and generally being fussed over by the parents.

Jade and Rayne are coming to visit this evening after a week of school. I have started a dress- up box for them. Have heaped old scarves, belts and shiny stuff for capes into my grandfathers’ old box trunk which stands in our lounge. Added a miniature wedding dress which Bianca then Kelli used to dress up, which I have kept in the attic until today. My mum made for it me to play in when I was 6. I know they will be so excited, and they will probably play the drums excellently in our lounge as part of the dance show they will immediately devise in their new regalia.
I shall boil eggs and stuff them for the little girls, for an early theatre supper …yummy !

Cajun-spiced Stuffed Eggs

Ingredients:

Eggs – 6 hard boiled
Mayonnaise
Cajun spice mix – 1 teaspoon or more if you like it spicier. See recipe below.
Salt

Method:

Hard boil and half the eggs length ways. Scoop out the yolk and mash it with mayonnaise and Cajun spice mix to taste. ( Less cajun spice in the eggs the little ones will get!) Add salt as necessary. Pile the yolks back into the white shells and serve on a bed of coleslaw .

Coleslaw

Ingredients:
Cabbage – 2 cups finely shredded
Carrot – 1 cup grated
Apple – 1 cup grated (skin and all)
Mayonnaise – 1/2 cup mixed to creamy consistency with milk, and salt and pepper to taste
Trail mix – 1 cup (including delicious nuts,raisins,sunflower and pumpkin seeds)

Method:

Mix cabbage, carrot and apple with mayonnaise. Stir in trail mix.

Cajun spice mix

Ingredients:

Paprika – 1/2 cup
Cayenne pepper – 1 and 1/2 tablespoons
Black pepper – 1/4 cup
Onion powder –  2 tablespoons
Garlic powder – 2 tablespoons

Method:

Combine spices thoroughly, store  in a jar in a cool place.

 

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